OTOH, as he explained - my blocking job - will be the key. That's outside of the scope of what this car will get. So I'm fixing things that on a high end job would be replaced.
BONDO SPOT GLAZING PUTTY DRIVER
I had to let him know this is a driver caliber car. He said I'm doing a good job and am on the right track. With that said - Ken came over last night and I LEARNED A LOT from him. That's been pointed out and that saved me some grief. (I suppose the pissing can be what the definition of "wrong" is). You guys need to consider - you're artists.
BONDO SPOT GLAZING PUTTY HOW TO
Working over an old finish/bodywork is NEVER a good idea but, it can be done IF you understand how to do it.and if you're not looking for a perfect/great result. He needs a uniform base to work off of which is why I told him to give it a few coats of Slicksand if he's not willing to strip it down and start from scratch. If he were to put a glaze over the top of and old filler, he would be making more work for himself because it will NOT sand at the same rate as the the old filler and it would cause more waves than it's worth. I stopped giving advise here a few years ago because I didn't want to deal with all the drama of the "know it all" internet tech's ( Remember Jakeshoe?.Same deal) but, I think Mike has earned the right to know right from wrong because he gave us this great board to hang out at every day. I'm trying to keep him from going through all that crap. Options,trail and error are for people who don't know how to do it right the first time.
BONDO SPOT GLAZING PUTTY TRIAL
Unless you are fortunate enough to have formal education OR a mentor to help you, much is learned by trial and error in the bodywork arena. If a product is not 2 parts it will no longer go onto vehicles I paint. Unless I use it wrong, it has failed me more than it helped. Single stage, red glazing putty shold be banned in my opinion. One of the biggest messages already stated above, which I will restate, ONLY use catylized products. Primer can shrink and is not a subistute for polyester filler. A big mistake seems to be that folks reach for this product when they should have been using a product like icing. Probably an option if you have a gun that will spray it and IF you find yourself needing to apply filler on larger areas.ĢK (2 part) Primer or filler is typically urethane paint with talc and other filler added which will spray from a gun (and sometimes clog as you discovered), and level surface imperfections once sanded. It is merely 2 part polyester filler that you can spray on. Slick Sand or Feather Fill are trade names for a sprayable version of icing. Inexpensive and easy to sand make quick work (read one application) of scratches up to 80 grit. Icing OR Dolphin Glaze are super thin putties designed, to fill, among other things, pin holes in existing filler AND sanding scratches. I am a bit surprised that a 2K high build primer/filler would not fix up your 240 scratches? Unless I read wrong. I assume I may have to do this several times. So this is getting bondo - straight over the rough primed surface. Now when I look at it, I can see a trace of the dent. So I ground this out and neutralized the rust. It was covered with bondo and contoured appropriately. Apparently, I'm going to be getting this back to level with the top most finish I didn't remove (1st original paint) That should solve that issue - rather than spot puttying all over the place I can see scratches. So what I plan on doing is DA'ing this with 180 and repriming it. I DA'ed the thing with 240 and primed this. Most spots were bondo or the remnants of the 1st (original) finish. So I buzzed the hell out of the door and took off almost all the finishes, some spots were bare metal. Don't know how deep as I didn't want to tear into the contour too bad. It had 6 or 7 coats of paint/primer on it and in areas it was cracking. I didn't strip the thing properly or perfectly. The other thing I considered is sanding the whole tail panel down with 180 and putting 2 more coats of 2K primer-filler on - that might eliminate the area in question - but I have other areas that will need some form of filler to get them flat & level.Īnother example is my door. Since I haven't sanded down the high build primer I assume this area is rough enough for whatever filler to stick to. Would I want bondo over bondo? Or would putty stick to this area?
Or can I use spot putty over that area as-is and sand down/reprime? Would I apply bondo over that area as-is and sand down/reprime? I can see some fine "scratches" in that area. I painted the tail panel with 2K high build primer-FILLER. I couldn't tell prior to taking down the finish. When I sanded my finish down, I broke into bondo splashed on my tail panel. I know for nickle or larger imperfections you use bondo.
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